Good Riddance Smokies!

Don't get me wrong... the park is beautiful. However, the 20 dollar fee for Thru Hikers and the no tenting rule or fines irks me and many of the other hikers. Therefore, I made it through in 4.5 days.

An interesting day was when Hump, Banjo, Tinker Bell, Roadkill, Nibz, and a guy named Bear woke up at 1am (morning after the bad rain) and decided to hike to Clingmans Dome to catch the sunrise. Hump asked me if I wanted to but I said, "No, but I'll catch up to y'all". I don't mind rain or darkness but I'm not a big fan of them at the same time because it just increases the chance of getting hurt. Turns out (per the hiker buzz) that they supposedly didn't make it in time for the sunrise. I'm guessing the temp dropping below freezing (Rain, Dark, Freezing) didn't help them.

So... in my effort to catch them I smoked the tires all the way to the Clingmans Dome from Derrick Knob Shelter. Of course, the mountain I thought was the dome turned out to be the one before it ... tricky McTrickster Appalachian Trail! When I finally got to the real dome I saw no sign of anyone. So I walked half a mile down the pavement to find some water, snacks, and a bathroom. Well, I found all of that and a nap! I also realized that I could refill my tiny Purell bottle with the wall hand sanitizer while popping a squat in the bathroom... hiker ingenuity. As I walked the half mile back up the pavement to the dome a lady with her kids gave me a compliment, "You know.. you're the cleanest looking Thru Hiker I've seen." My response, "Baby wipe skills!"

After making it back to the top I lounged around for another hour (total of two so far) at which point Special K and her father showed up. She is 50 years old and her father is 76 and they are thru hiking together. Both of them are good hikers (13 miles a day) which is amazing when you account for their age. They ended up leaving the dome before me in order to get to Mt Collins Shelter about 3 miles away.

During my two hours at the dome I was trying to figure out if Hump and everyone else went into town or went the distance (10 miles) to Icewater Spring Shelter. I assumed they went the extra 10 miles. Therefore, I did the same for a total of 21 miles that day (22 if you count my half miles at the dome). I show up at the shelter around 9pm (a little night hiking) only to find out from Cobalt that supposedly they went into Gatlinburg (later confirmed via txt message).

Since, my previous day was ridiculous mileage in the Smokies I decided to sleep in until 11am and just do 13 miles to Tri-Corner Knob Shelter. I definitely slow poked it that day. I think I rolled into camp around 5'ish? I ate and went straight to bed (2nd time shelter sleeping). I wanted to get up early so I could get to Standing Bear Farm. And that's exactly what I did along with a hiker named Pressure D (50 years old? Awesome hiker). We booked it 19 miles in 7 hours and found some of the last available bunk space at Standing Bear Farm. I'd say there are at least 30-50 hikers here. The best part of the day was when Hardtack (bumped into him on the way out of the Smokies - had met him a week ago before the NOC) and I split a Dijornos pizza. It was the best pizza I've ever had for the 45 seconds it existed on my plate. After that I had two Pepsi's, 3 Powerades, a Big Texas Cinnamon Roll, and a large bag of chips (the farm has a good selection of food).

So... here I am finishing this blog, listening to the rain outside, and planning for Hot Springs in a few days.

One more thing... I don't proof read this blog. Usually to tired and its difficult on a phone.

Smokey Mountains & Rain

Fontana Dam was great. Tons of hikers at the shelter that night hanging out, roasting hot dogs, and drinking beer. We went into the little resort down the road earlier in the day and had some southwest egg rolls, fries, V8, and a patty melt in the main building. The rest of the resort had cabins, condos, hotel rooms, pools, a lazy river, putt putt golf, a general store, jet skis, boats, and a ton of other things. The best perk is its hiker friendly.

We left from there Tuesday morning, crossed over the dam (pic below), and headed into the Smokey Mountains for a 14 mile hike that was pretty much all uphill. Tinkerbell, Roadkill, Banjo, Hump, Nothing Man, Night Train, and I made it to the fire tower around noon for lunch. That tower was sketchy. It was missing hand rails, rivets in the foot boards, had rotting wood, and was a tetanus shot waiting to happen. But, I got some good photos at the top.

From the tower we walked about another seven miles and camped. I spent my first night in a shelter since that's the rules up here unless they're full. I didn't get great sleep but at least no rodents chewed into my stuff.

I woke up the next morning all sluggish for the first half of the day, but I was awake enough for the amazing cold and windy views. We made it 10 miles to a shelter by 1pm only for it to rain worse than expected for the rest of the day. We talked about going another five miles to the next shelter but it started raining every time we were about to head on. Not long after we decided to just hunker down for the night, the shelter started bustling with people coming in from the rain. As of right now is say 6 are camped outside and about 15-20 are scrunched up in the shelter (pic below). You might say the rain days are the most fun because they bring everyone together for memorable group moments.

Until tomorrow....

Journey to the Smokey Mountains

Well... we left the NOC late Saturday and only put in 7 miles. We got to Sassafras Gap Shelter a little before the sun went down. It's a nice shelter, but there weren't any level tent spots so I had to setup slightly downhill. After doing that, we sat around the fire drinking vodka and talking conspiracy theories. A hiker called Sing-a-long definitely took the conspiracy theory award. I remember going to sleep and hearing him go on for at least another hour. To end the night a hiker called Chubby (thats what we were drinking the vodka out of and he had 4 bottles) was so drunk he rolled down the hill. The funny thing was he didn't even cry out... everyone simply noticed he disappeared. Luckily he was okay, but he was so drunk Hump and Sing-a-long had to carry him up the hill to the shelter.

The following morning Hump and I set out with the goal to hike 21 miles to Fontana Dam. Things were going good until we hit this 800ft half mile climb called Jacobs Ladder. It was probably the toughest ascent so far (pic below). However, another hiker and I missed the water source right after and that's when things went downhill for me. I started getting thirsty, sluggish, and my feet started aching again real bad. I finally got some water 7 miles later but I was exhausted by then. I made it a few more miles to Cable Gap Shelter for a total of 15.2 miles. Hump steamrolled ahead and I assume he made it to Fontana Dam by 6pm (dude is fast).

I thought about pushing for another 5 miles, but I decided to listen to my body and lay down camp. I quickly set up my tent and spent the next hour massaging my feet because they ached something fierce. I was so exhausted that I didn't leave my tent the rest of the evening. I just sat and ate, massaged my feet, and rested. There was a nice fire going at the shelter, but I had zero desire to walk from my tent to participate. My goal is to wake up early tomorrow and get to Fontana Dam before noon. Once there, I can eat, resupply, and start the Smokey Mountains.

Sleeeeeeeepp....

Nantahala Outdoor Center

Made it to the Nantahala Outdoor Center yesterday afternoon after 8 miles down hill in a thunderstorm. I'm at about 135 miles total right now. Im going to take two zero days to recover and to stay out of a big storm tomorrow. Figure ill make it up in the Smokey Mountains.

This center is pretty neat. It's situated right on the Nantahala River. The have a white water rafting course you can watch people go down, class 5 rapids close by, cabins, a diner, zip lines, trains, and an outfitter.

I went into the outfitter and they had a former orthopedic specialist working part time in the store. He helped me with some shoe inserts and told me that I would benefit greatly from some metatarsal pads. He said they don't sell them, but any drug store should. Whats crazy is he knew exactly where my foot pain was without even asking just by looking at my feet. Everyone else usually asks, "Where does it hurt?" I'll say one thing... the inserts just by themselves without the pads already started making a world of difference. Therefore, I'm looking forward to some easier hiking.

So the agenda for the next two days will be:

- Sleep
- Eat, eat, eat
- Wash clothes
- Haircut
- Smokeys pass
- Look for some metatarsal pads

10 uses for a Bandana on the AT

Current location:

https://maps.google.com/?ll=35.2314798,-83.5594819

1. Drape it off the back of your head under your hat to keep the sun off you neck.

2. Blowing your nose.

3. Soak it in water and wrap it around your head to keep you cool.

4. Wiping sweat off your face.

5. Soak it in water and wipe yourself down.

6. Cleaning your cooking pot.

7. Wrap it around your nose to keep the smell of the privy down when going.

8. Lay it on log when you're going #2 so you don't get splinters and bark all over your legs.

9. Tourniquet

10. Emergency toilet paper

Thoughts, insights, and miscalculations...

1. The trail is NOT easy

No, I didn't come into this thinking it was going to be a stroll in the woods. But, I also didn't expect it to be as physically demanding as it is. Especially, since I bike, swim, run, lift, on a regular basis. I can't imagine how hard this trail would be on someone starting it out of shape.

2. Fancy maps & compasses aren't needed

As far as Georgia is concerned you don't need these things. The trail is very well marked by white paint on trees every so many yards. It's also very well worn by foot traffic. Water spots, alternate trails, and shelters are also marked by paint and signs.

3. Good quality gear is king

I've seen a few Walmart tents left behind already. Jet Boils and alcohol stoves are the king out here.

4. Useless gear

It makes great campfire stories. Everyone has one about someone they know telling them they will need things like a saw, pots & pans, fire fuel, camping chairs, and the like. Someone mentioned a guy at the start having 75lbs worth of gear like this. I couldn't imagine trying to lug that around on this trail.

5. Every thru hiker becomes a gram nazi

When you're doing 12-20 miles a day you can't help but think about the little things. Less weight means faster, longer, more enjoyable, and less injuries. I've already sent home things like a multitool sheath, jet boil stand, deodorant, stove parts, and extra socks. I'm planning on sending home the case my Steripen slides into as we'll as my knife.

6. The trail is anything but direct

Expect to go over the mountain vs. around the mountain 90% of the time. I honestly thought the trail would wind through the mountains more as that would seem logical if I was blazing a trail.

7. Keep your nether regions clean

Wet wipes are the best invention. Use them when you go during the day and again at night if you still have funk.

8. Buy good food

I've been giving away Marathon bars because they are physically tiring to eat. I bought Ramen Noodles for the first time in years because I've been craving salt. I also bought some packaged chili and bacon bits. These things are practical (canned soup isn't) and a moral boost. I've also noticed chewing on starburst while walking works well and tastes great.

9. Bears are smart

Just because you hung your food bag correctly doesn't mean the creature won't cut your line or climb the tree to get it. I've already seen two food bags destroyed in the first week that were hung correctly.

North Carolina & 100 miles

Well... I made it into North Carolina on Saturday. The border sign was less than I expected (picture below). I also hit my first 100 miles today (Sunday). However, after about 10 miles my feet start to ache something fierce. Because of that, I will be stopping in Franklin to look at Dr. Scholls or some stiffer shoes. I will also be sending home two more pounds of gear that I don't need.

I'd like to give a little shout out to BJ and Champ for sticking it out through the storm on Thursday evening last week. Hump and I bumped into them a little north of Dicks Creek on Saturday as we returned to the trail. They're some good people and I wish them the best. I've included a photo below of them plus Hump and I.

12 hrs, 24 Miles, 10k ft of elevation change...

Couldn't post last night because I had no signal. Here's what happened today:

- 24 miles of hiking.
- 10,000 ft of elevation change.
- Didn't see anyone for 10 hours (rain).
- Hiked a third of that time in the rain.
- Only are 500 calories but felt good.
- Hiked about an hour in the dark.
- Hitched a ride into town.

And I made it to Dicks Creek a little past 8pm after starting at 8am. Was about to camp on the side of the road in the rain when I heard the sound of a Diesel engine heading towards me. I tossed out the thumb and a nice older gentlemen gave me a ride to the Holiday Inn in Hiawassee GA. He also gave me some fries, but I could only get down a few since I really didn't eat all day.

After checking in to the hotel I decided to walk down the road to the local McDonalds to scarf down a two cheeseburger meal. But what would you know ... Dave aka Hump (ex Ranger) was sitting outside smoking. Small world because he could of went to the other town in the area or one of the many hotels in this town. Apparently Yolo and him put in 20 miles today just to get here.

As for McDonalds, I jogged there. Must be the endorphins. However, I didn't eat the three supersize meals I was planning to. I could barely get down one without throwing up. I'm guessing the exertion and lack of food has something to do with it because I feel fine otherwise.

After walking back to the hotel in the thunderstorm I headed up to Hump & Yolo's room for some wheat beer (they invited me earlier). We all chatted about the brutal day and our plans for the next few days.

Yolo is hitting the trail again tomorrow so he can get to Franklin NC on Sunday to pick up a mail drop. He invited Hump & I to join him at his buddy's lake house if we make it there by Sunday. Hump and I agreed to split a room tomorrow. This will be my first zero day. I'm looking forward to some grocery shopping, a buzz cut, some rest, and a pizza buffet.

All in all, I feel pretty good.

Response to comments

Don't know why but when I reply to comments they don't get posted.

Meyers - I'm game. What part of Virginia do you live?

Chester - Not too crowded. Plenty of spacing when walking.

Paul - He hurt it walking up hill. However, the dude is tough because he caught up to me at Neels Gap. He asked if I wanted to do a beer run but two out of three snickers bars flips said no.

Lorne - Pace is a little off but I hear its normal the first few weeks. About 3/4ths are heading to Maine.

In the picture is what most of the trail is like so far.

Neels Gap

Blood Mountain gave me some bloody blisters for sure. But on the other side was an AT oasis... Neels Gap. Sent home a few pounds of gear, ate two hot dogs, drank a V8, and two gatorades. Camping on a ridge tonight with a pretty good view. First picture is the top of Blood Mountain. Second one is the view from my campsite tonight.

Tough Day

Got like two hours of sleep. Tons of switch backs. Think I got dehydrated. However, made it to a good camp, got some food, and all is good. Craving pepperoni and ramen noodles for some reason. Coordinates are:

https://maps.google.com/?ll=34.7265592,-83.9648766

Up & Down

Lots of hills today... starting to feel the blisters because of them. Got my first taste of trail magic too. Couple of 68' Marines hooked a whole bunch of us up with hot dogs and coke.

Met a guy from the Ukraine named Bill. Hiked a decent amount with an ex army ranger although he might of busted his ACL today. Also met a dude from Houston. Current coordinates are:

https://maps.google.com/?ll=34.6559148,-84.0495438

The Beginning

Much thanks to my amigos Bert & Pauly M for dropping me off out here. Didn't sleep much last night because my mind was wandering. Some dude already gave me crap for carrying a bear canister... "no I'm not sending 200 dollars back home so I can pack an extra pound of snickers bars." Already carrying 7 days of food. Weather is awesome and its peaceful out here.

My current coordinates:

34.6644756 (34°39'52.1136"), -84.1365012 (-84°8'11.4030")

Map Test

My current location

http://maps.google.com?ll=29.689991,-95.396776

My Gear List

Many people have been wondering what my gear looks like and the weight of everything.  My goal was to stay under 20 lbs before food and water.  As you can see, I'm a little over that amount so I'm looking at what my options are to reduce that a little bit.  However, this is close to what everything looks like:

v = weight verified with scale

AT 2013 GEAR LIST
ITEM	WEIGHT (g)	COST
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL1	885	350		v
Copper Spur Poles & Stakes	493	50		v
REI Radiant Plus Down Bag	1467	0		v
ULA Circuit Backpack	1109	180		v
Compass	29	0		v
Hygiene Kit	186	0		v
Trowel	85	0		v
Sea-to-Summit Xbowl Collapsible	77	0		v
50ft Utility Rope	97	0		v
NeoAir Xlite 20x72	365	160		v
Ultralight Medical Kit 5	178	0		v
JetBoil Kitchen	548	0		v
Extra Fuel Canister	199	0		v
Guide Book	244	0		v
Petzl Head Lamp	82	0		v
Sawyer Squeeze	78	50		v
Sawyer Seringe (plastic wrap)	38	0		v
Sawyer 64oz Container	31	0		v
Sawyer 32oz Container	23	0		v
Bearikade Weekender Canister	897	125		v
Coleman Biowipes	237	5		v
Duck Tape 5 yards	48	2		v
Purell Hand Sanitizer	43	3		v
Total	7439
Total LBS	16.40016818
CLOTHES	WEIGHT (g)	COST
Terramar Top W8369	199	0		v
ScentCore Legs	237	0		v
Smartwool Socks (Sleep)	153	24		v
Bandana	37	0		v
Experia Wool Socks Tholo Pads	43	15		v
BCG Compression Shirt	161	0		v
UnderArmor Baklava	49	0		v
Glove Liners	49	0		v
Manzella Polyester Gloves	49	0		v
Adidas ClimaLite Boxer Briefs	65	0		v
Adidas ClimaLite Boxer Briefs	65	0		v
Frogg Toggs Rain Jacket	357	0		v
Mosquito Head Net	17	5		v
Total	1464
Total LBS	3.22756368
ELECTRONICS	WEIGHT (g)	COST
IPhone 4 + LifeProof Case	173	0		v
Anker 8400 mAh Charger	277	30		v
Total	450
Total LBS	0.992079
Grand Total	9353
Grand Total LBS	20.61981086
WEARING	WEIGHT (g)	COST
Brooks Cascadia 7 Trail Shoes	749	0		v
Magellan Nylon Longsleeve	283	0		v
Magellan Nylon Zip Pants	417	0		v
Experia Wool Socks Tholo Pads	43	15		v
BCG Compression Shirt	161	0		v
Adidas ClimaLite Boxer Briefs	65	0		v

Blog Test & Tent

I was able to set my Big Agnes Copper Spur UL1 up in about 5 minutes. I did it in this order to simulate a rain situation:

1. Footprint & poles
2. Rain fly
3. Tent